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Monday, January 23, 2017

Quick post on RV weight

Read a question on an RV forum about "4-Corner weights vs. just getting axle weights." Here is my reply.

Getting 4 corner weights (actual load on each tire for trailers or each position on motorhomes) is definitely worth doing, once. Once you figure your numbers you are typically good to go for the life of the tires or unless you change something big.

Do it fully loaded,  i.e., fuel, water, canned goods, fishing gear, clothes, books, people, etc.

Based on actual data from RVSEF, very few RVs have side-to-side loading at 50/50%. Some owners have discovered one axle end as much as 1,000 lbs. heavier than the other!

Once you know for a fact that you have at least a few hundred pounds "cushion" (being under your RV GAWR [gross axle weight rating] and GVWR [gross vehicle weight rating]), you don't need to do corner weight again unless you make a major change or remodel of the RV (e.g., adding a residential fridge or granite counter-top) and have a reasonable balance to start with.

I do suggest at least once a year a quick check of axle loading by going through a truck stop scale. You can compare the truck scale numbers with your corner weight totals to confirm your RV hasn't suffered from weight creep, as some of the drivers may have noticed over the years.

Weight terminology tidbits:

SCWR (sleeping capacity weight rating)

The manufacturer’s designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 154 pounds (70 kilograms) which is the official weight of people in cars and RVs.

CCC (cargo carrying capacity)

The GVWR minus each of the following: unloaded vehicle weight, full fresh (potable) water weight (including water heater), full LP-gas weight, and SCWR.
This new label permits the buyer/owner to determine the carrying capacity (CCC) based on a personal calculation of actual passengers carried, the amount of fresh water onboard, and the amount of LP-gas carried.

More info on terms and abbreviations can be found HERE

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  1. I see some benefit to weighing individual axles and wheels (side to side) but this could take a long time, moving tires on and off a scale, unhooking the trailer, re-hooking etc. A truck stop is NOT the place to do this. There are trucks who need to weigh to make sure they're legal, and get going. All of the times we've weighed our truck and trailer were done at closed truck highway scales with the weight still showing on a digital display. However, even those are sometimes hard to find.

  2. We went to a moving company to get out class C weighed. It only cost 5 dollars and well worth it. Also we received a receipt of the weight. Only took a few minutes.

  3. The Moving Co is a good suggestion. No need to hook-up and un-hood a trailer to get reasonably accurate side to side loading. If you get the total on ea axle in the first pass then the load on one end of each axle on the 2nd pass math will tell you the load on the other end of your trailer axle.
    Your tow vehicle is more likely to be within 1% of side to side balance but RVs can be significantly un balanced side to side.


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