How I avoid problems with Dualie tire hose extenders.

The key to avoiding problems with a hose or any type of valve extension is to be sure the outer end is

 S O L I D.

Some hose kits come with small brackets that can be pop-riveted to hub cap. Others have brackets that attach to lug nut.
People often fail to support the hose or bracket when checking or adding air. The force needed to get a good air seal is enough to bend or loosen the hose mounts. or they inadvertently twist the hose and end up with a leak where the hose screws onto the metal valve.

You need to hold the outer end of the hose firmly to prevent movement or twisting or you can expect to eventually have problems.
In THIS blog post, you can see my set-up (42,000 mi) w/ no leaks or failures.

Since I run a +10% psi margin over the minimum pressure I need on my Class-C based on 4 corner weights and since I always run TPMS (that I have tested) I simply use the TPMS to tell me the inflation each morning before I start out.
During a cross country trip OH > OR > OH over 7 weeks I only needed to add air once so since I am not messing with the hose extensions, I am not pushing on their mounts or applying a force that might result in a slow leak.

If/when I ever do need to remove a sensor to change a battery or add air, I ALWAYS spritz Windex to check for any leaks after I am done.

##RVT926

Dual Tire Hose Extenders? Tips to avoid problems.

Some general comment on extensions for owners of Motorhomes and dually pick-ups.

When I was racing, I towed a 26' enclosed trailer with a 1-Ton dually and had steel braided hose valve extensions. We ran about 78,000 miles with no problems. When I got my Class-C my first add-on was  TPMS followed by steel braided extensions. With only 16,000 miles there have been no leaks or other  problems.

Now there are TWO main things that I would consider a MUST. 
First you need bolt in metal valves.  
Second you need a hard attaching point on the outer end of the hose to prevent movement of the hoses. The hoses come in different lengths so you should run the shortest hoses that allow you to easily bolt the outer end down and you need to support the end of the hose when pushing on it with your tire gauge or air chuck.

I have seen a claim that a metal valve failed because of fatigue from the hose but without significant movement of the hose there should not be enough to stress the valve stem.
Metal valve stems should be replaced or at least have all the rubber O-rings and gaskets replaced whenever you change a tire. The rubber parts age just as the rubber on your tire ages. Replacing when you replace tires eliminates the need of keeping track of the age of the O-rings and seals. There is a rubber interior to the hose and this will also age, so when I replace my tires I will get new hose extenders along with new valve rubber parts.

I have seen spring clips that are supposed to retain the steel braided hose but they don't look too solid to me. I have not looked at the rubber "grommet" that fits the hand holes but have to wonder if they hold the braided steel line solidly. Clearly they do not support the hose end so there will definitely be some movement.

You can see in my set-up that I have the Wheel Master 8001 hoses firmly attached to my hub cap. I do hold the extender hose when ever using a gauge or air chuck.

Valve extender hoses can work and make adding and checking the air on dual applications much easier. All you need to do is to pay attention to a proper installation that minimizes any movement or rotation of the hose extender.