Getting 4 corner weights (actual load on each tire for trailers or each position on motorhomes) is definitely worth doing, once. Once you figure your numbers you are typically good to go for the life of the tires or unless you change something big.
Do it fully loaded, i.e., fuel, water, canned goods, fishing gear, clothes, books, people, etc.
Based on actual data from RVSEF, very few RVs have side-to-side loading at 50/50%. Some owners have discovered one axle end as much as 1,000 lbs. heavier than the other!
Once you know for a fact that you have at least a few hundred pounds "cushion" (being under your RV GAWR [gross axle weight rating] and GVWR [gross vehicle weight rating]), you don't need to do corner weight again unless you make a major change or remodel of the RV (e.g., adding a residential fridge or granite counter-top) and have a reasonable balance to start with.
I do suggest at least once a year a quick check of axle loading by going through a truck stop scale. You can compare the truck scale numbers with your corner weight totals to confirm your RV hasn't suffered from weight creep, as some of the drivers may have noticed over the years.
Weight terminology tidbits:
SCWR (sleeping capacity weight rating)The manufacturer’s designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 154 pounds (70 kilograms) which is the official weight of people in cars and RVs.
CCC (cargo carrying capacity)The GVWR minus each of the following: unloaded vehicle weight, full fresh (potable) water weight (including water heater), full LP-gas weight, and SCWR.
This new label permits the buyer/owner to determine the carrying capacity (CCC) based on a personal calculation of actual passengers carried, the amount of fresh water onboard, and the amount of LP-gas carried.
More info on terms and abbreviations can be found HERE
Subscribe to the weekly RVtravel.com newsletter or one of our other newsletters about RVing. Great information and advice. Now in our 16th year. Learn more or subscribe.